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In the mirror, I seem to have on huge gilded pantaloons, visible just for my eyes. Children play in a rock pool imitating sea nymphs, while in the next room sits a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, next to a imposing mound of mattresses. It represents the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the nineteenth-century's widely adored authors. I’m in this Danish town, located on Funen in the southern part of Denmark, to investigate the writer's lasting influence in his home town many decades after his demise, and to find a couple of magical stories of my own.

The Exhibition: The Andersen Museum

HC Andersens Hus is the city’s exhibition space celebrating the writer, featuring his original residence. A museum representative explains that in earlier iterations of the museum there was minimal emphasis on the author's tales. His personal history was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For tourists who come to Odense in search of storytelling magic, it was a little lacking.

The redesign of downtown Odense, diverting a main thoroughfare, created the chance to reconsider how the renowned native could be honored. An international design contest gave the Japanese company Kengo Kuma and Associates the commission, with the innovative curatorial vision at the heart of the structure. The unique timber-clad museum with interlinked curving spaces debuted to great fanfare in 2021. “Our goal was to build a place where we avoid discussing the writer, but we talk like him: with comedy, irony and viewpoint,” notes the curator. The outdoor spaces follow this philosophy: “This is a landscape for strollers and for large beings, it's planned to give you a sense of smallness,” he says, a challenge accomplished by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with verticality, size and numerous twisting trails in a deceptively small space.

The Author's Influence

Andersen wrote two and a half personal accounts and often provided conflicting accounts. The exhibition embraces this concept seriously; typically the perspectives of his acquaintances or excerpts of correspondence are shown to gently question the author’s own version of incidents. “The author is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” notes the representative. The effect is a compelling swift exploration of the author's biography and creations, thinking patterns and favorite tales. It is provocative and playful, for grown-ups and children, with a bonus basement imaginary world, the fictional village, for the children.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the actual city, the compact town of Odense is charming, with cobbled streets and historic timber buildings colored in bright colours. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the traffic lights feature the author with his signature characteristic hat, bronze footmarks give a free Andersen walking tour, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this commitment peaks with the regular HC Andersen festival, which marks the his influence through art, performance, stage shows and music.

During my visit, the week-long festival had numerous performances, many were free. As I explore this place, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, fantastical beings and an Andersen lookalike sharing tales. I hear contemporary performances and see an incredible late-night performance including graceful performers coming down from the municipal structure and dangling from a mechanical arm. Still to come in the coming months are presentations, family art workshops and, expanding the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s annual wonder event.

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a fortress, and this region boasts 123 castles and stately homes around the area

Pedaling Through History

As in other Danish regions, cycles are the best way to navigate in the city and a “bike path” meanders through the city centre. From the local hotel, I pedal to the free waterside bathing area, then out of town for a circuit around Stige Ø, a compact territory connected by causeway to the primary land. City residents relax with food here following their day, or appreciate a peaceful time fishing, water sports or bathing.

Returning to town, I eat at Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the culinary offerings is inspired by Andersen themes and tales. The poem the national ode is highlighted when I visit, and proprietor the restaurateur recites passages, rendered in English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience repeated often in my time in Odense, the fynbo appreciate narratives and it seems that sharing tales is always offered here.

Historic Estate Tours

All good fairytale destinations require a palace, and Fyn features 123 castles and estates throughout the region. Traveling briefly from the city, I visit Egeskov Castle, the region's best-preserved Renaissance water castle. Despite parts are open to visitors, this historic site is also the private residence of the noble family and his wife, the royal resident. I wonder if she might sense a pea through a stack of {mattresses